FAQ

Here’s what it costs to service your board with us:

• 100-hour drop-off service: $195
• 100-hour mobile service (we come to you): $300/hour
• Out-of-warranty labor: $175/hour
• Custom work (paint, fiberglass, carbon repair): Priced after inspection

If you're riding regularly on the Gulf—especially in salt-heavy zones like Panama City Beach or Destin—your board will need real maintenance. We’re the only shop in the region handling these repairs with Fliteboard-level precision.

If you're hitting that 100-hour mark (or anywhere close), here's what we inspect and service:

• Motor seals, oil, and anode replacement
• Wing pad replacement if needed
• Pressure test of the sealed system to check for leaks
• Controller and trigger check (these often get sticky or water-logged over time)
• Propeller and bearing re-grease
• Full visual inspection of the board for any damage beyond basic cosmetic wear

This isn’t a quick rinse—it’s the exact service schedule Fliteboard recommends to protect your warranty. If your board skips this, you risk voiding that coverage. And here in Florida, salt and sand speed up wear faster than inland riding ever will.

Most damage we see comes from poor rinse-down or lazy storage. If you're riding saltwater— especially in the Florida Panhandle—here’s what to do every time:

• Rinse off every inch of the board with fresh water
• Dry the Flitecell and connectors with a clean towel
• Spray contact cleaner into all cable ports (don’t wait until corrosion sets in)
• Dry the board deck and pad—mildew builds fast in this humidity
• Always bag the board. And don’t toss it on gravel or concrete—carbon scratches add up
• Store everything out of the sun—never leave it in a hot truck or on a dock

This five-minute habit saves you hundreds later.

If you’re parking your gear for a few weeks or months:

• Don’t store fully charged or fully dead—keep the battery at around 40%
• Never leave the Flitecell in your car (or your RV, or in direct sunlight)
• Ideal temp: 50–77°F
• Don’t store it while plugged in—charge it, unplug it, and store it clean and dry
• Keep it out of reach of kids or pets

Before riding again:
You’ll need to fully charge both the Flitecell and controller to 100%. This can take up to 24 hours, especially after a long break. Use that time to check for wear or water damage.

If you're riding weekly (or more), especially here in the Panhandle where salt, sun, and humidity do their thing fast, here's what we recommend every few weeks:

• Use a non-solvent silicone-based lubricant on your latches and hinges. Don't let it drip
onto the board or deck grip—it’ll leave a slippery film.
• Check the board for any cracks, pressure spots, or impact damage. If you find
anything sketchy, bring it in—we do damage assessments and repair quotes fast.
• Clean and inspect the orange mast flange seal. If that seal goes, water gets in. Keep it
clean and make sure it’s not pinched, frayed, or drying out.
• If you're riding daily or multiple sessions a week, pop the eFoil off the board and
remove the wings every 2–3 days. This lets you clean out trapped salt, apply contact
cleaner to all cables, and add Tef-Gel to the hardware.

We see most long-term issues start from riders skipping these basics. Five minutes of prevention out here is worth hours of teardown and hundreds in repairs.
After long-term storage, you must charge the Flitecell and controller to 100%. This may take longer than normal, potentially up to 24 hours. Use this time to inspect and perform routine maintenance.

Do this every few weeks to keep your flite board performing at its best.

• Use a silicone-based lubricant (non-solvent) for the latches and hinges. Avoid getting it on the board and deck grip.
• Check your board for damage and cracks. If you see anything, contact us for an estimate on the repair.
• Check the orange mast flange seal regularly for damage and keep it clean.
• If you’re riding daily, make sure the efoil is removed from the board and wings every three days. Use contact cleaner on all cables and apply Tef-Gel to all screws.
We get a lot of questions about inflatable care, especially with Florida heat and salt air in the mix. Here's how to keep your Fliteboard Air in solid shape:
• Keep the bladder inflated to 15–16 PSI. Anything less gets soft underfoot. Anything
more risks overexpansion, especially if it sits in the sun.
• After riding, rinse the inflatable bladder with warm soapy water. Salt and sand love to
hide in the seams—if you skip the wash, they’ll slowly eat the material.
• Dry it completely before storing. Trapped moisture is a mold magnet in this climate.
• You can store the bladder inflated or deflated, either on or off the carbon insert—
whatever fits your space. Just make sure it’s dry and protected.
• If you find a puncture or seam issue, use the supplied repair kit—it works well for most
minor issues. If not, bring it in and we’ll patch it properly.

Don’t leave it inflated in direct sun or a closed car. It might survive the ride, but long-term that pressure and heat will weaken the material fast

Keep the inflatable bladder at 15–16 PSI. That gives you the right balance of stiffness and
responsiveness without stressing the seams. Just remember—if you leave it in direct sun
(especially in a hot car or on a dock), internal pressure will rise, so it’s best to deflate slightly when storing in heat

After each session:

• Wash the bladder with warm, soapy water to remove salt and sand
• Dry it completely before putting it away—moisture and heat can lead to mildew
• You can store it inflated or deflated, on or off the carbon insert
• If you spot a leak or puncture, use the included repair kit or bring it to us for a pro patch
job

In the Florida Panhandle, that rinse-down

This is what we tell every rider who wants their Flitescooter to last long term with minimal wear:

• First, wash the inflatable bladder thoroughly with warm, soapy water.
• Dry it completely before putting it away. Any trapped moisture will turn to mildew fast
in Florida humidity.
• You can store the bladder either inflated or deflated, and it’s fine to leave it on or off
the carbon insert—just make sure it’s clean and dry either way.
• Also, wash the core with the same soapy water.
• Wipe off any sand or debris around the mast flange and the Flitecell lid
compartment seals—these areas get caked up easily if you’re launching from the beach.
• Once everything’s dry, store the Flitescooter and all its components inside their bags in
a clean, dry space—garage shelves, climate-controlled closets, or anywhere out of direct
sun and away from salt air.

Most of the damage we repair happens in storage—not during riding. Get this routine right and your setup will last way longer.

This is one of the most important routines if you’re riding in the Gulf. Salt and sand will creep
into everything—especially around the mast and trigger—if you don’t stay ahead of it.
Here’s exactly what to do after each session:
• Rinse the entire eFoil with fresh water. Don’t skip this—even one session in saltwater
can start buildup.
• Use isopropyl alcohol or WD-40 to wipe down areas where salt and grime collect—
specifically around the fuselage, mast flange, tail, and end cap.
• Do not spray water on the Flitebox or power cables. Instead, take a wet microfiber
towel with mild soapy water and gently rub those areas clean.
• Every so often, spray contact cleaner into the power cable connections to flush out
any salt starting to crust inside.
• Clean the stem and console the same way as the eFoil.
• And at least once a week (or more if you're riding daily), flush water through the inside of the stem and console. This helps loosen any salt buildup that can collect around the
trigger mechanism and inside the housing.

We’ve had boards come into the shop from Navarre and PCB that were barely a month old—but already had corrosion in the stem. It always comes back to this: rinse, clean, protect.

After every ride—especially in saltwater—you need to clean the safety key and controller the right way to avoid corrosion or sticky trigger issues.

Here’s exactly what to do:
• Wash both the wireless safety key and the controller with warm, soapy water
• Use a microfiber towel to wipe them down thoroughly and dry them completely
• Then, spray a bit of fresh water around the trigger to flush out any sand, grit, or debris
that might have worked its way inside

That trigger housing is sensitive. If you ride the beach often or drop the controller in the sand, debris will collect fast. Keep it clean or you’ll feel stiffness—or worse, lose responsiveness midsession.

If you’re riding in the Gulf—even just once—you need to flush and dry your eFoil mast the right way. Salt builds up fast, and once it sets into the flange or cable ports, you’ll start seeing electrical issues, leaks, or corrosion that void your warranty. Fliteboard is very resistant but it’s always good practice to guard your investment.

Here’s the full post-ride routine we recommend at Emerald Wake:
• Disconnect everything:
o Flitecell power cables
o Data cables
o Receiver
o And if you’re using a Series 1 setup, don’t forget the Flitecell Canbus cable

• Rinse the entire mast with fresh water. Don’t just spray the outside—
o Make sure you rinse through the notch at the rear of the flange to flush the inside of the mast
o This is where salt loves to hide and harden up if left unchecked

• If you're storing the board with the eFoil still attached, still take the time to rinse around
the mast flange. That area traps salt between the foil and deck—especially if you rode in
choppy conditions or ran into sea spray.

Once rinsed, dry everything down completely before reassembly or storage. Never bag
or close a wet mast system—it’s the #1 cause of avoidable corrosion in the Panhandle.

Your post-ride rinse is essential—but every few weeks, especially if you're riding in salt-heavy spots like Destin, Pensacola, or Panama City Beach, your mast needs a full teardown.

Here’s what we do at Emerald Wake and what we recommend to all serious riders:
• Disassemble the eFoil from the board completely
• Remove the wing, fuselage cover, and tail
• Wash all components with warm, soapy water—focus on removing built-up salt and
fine sand. These materials collect in tight seams and can cause long-term abrasion or
corrosion
• After rinsing and drying, periodically wipe down the mast with the correct cleaner:
o Use isopropyl alcohol on silver hardware
o Use WD-40 on black hardware or treated surfaces
• Always use a clean microfiber towel and avoid paper towels—they leave lint and don’t
pull salt the same way

This level of maintenance can feel overkill, but it’s not. We’ve seen mast seals fail at under 80 hours because riders let salt accumulate in hidden zones. If you're putting in sessions every week, his deep clean should be part of your monthly ritual.

After every ride—especially in saltwater—rinse your folding prop with fresh water. That’s your baseline.

Yes, occasionally. Here’s how to maintain it properly:
• Remove the folding prop completely
• Wipe it down with a microfiber towel
• Use WD-40 or isopropyl alcohol to dissolve any salt or grime

• The pivot pins where the blades rotate
• The rear clamp on the propeller pin
• These are the first spots to seize up when salt gets in

Yes—Fliteboard provides an official folding prop removal and installation guide. Refer to that if you’re unsure, or bring it to us and we’ll walk you through it.

After every ride—especially in saltwater—rinse the controller thoroughly with fresh water.
Don’t just splash it—run a steady stream of water directly into the trigger housing, and press and release the trigger multiple times to work out any sand, grit, or salt.

Yes. Here’s how to do a full breakdown safely:

1. Peel back the rubber cover on the underside of the controller
2. Rinse the area underneath with fresh water
3. Make sure it’s completely dry before you seal it again

If you’re dealing with a sticky trigger or suspect salt intrusion:

• Remove the trigger assembly using the three torque screws on the underside
• This gives you access to the trigger, spring, and magnet for a proper inspection and
clean-out

We do this all the time in our Panama City Beach shop—especially after controllers have been dropped in dry sand or left out wet overnight.

Always keep the controller in a cool, dry place out of the sun. Heat and UV exposure will
destroy the internal electronics and shorten the lifespan of the housing.

After every session—especially in saltwater—you need to clean and cool the Flitecell properly before recharging.

Here’s your exact routine:
• Wipe the Flitecell down with a wet cloth and fresh water
• Clean the battery contacts and data connector using contact cleaner—not just water
• Never place the Flitecell directly on sand, and do not submerge it or rinse it under a
hose. It’s water-resistant, not waterproof
• Wait at least 30 minutes after riding before charging—this allows internal
components to cool. Charging while hot shortens lifespan

• Never use denatured alcohol or flammable solvents on the Flitecell or charger\
• Stick to fresh water and approved contact cleaners only

Follow this process immediately:

1. Look for the sight glass on the side of the Flitecell
2. Stand the battery upright on its bottom end for 1 minute
3. Then lay it on its side with the sight glass facing down for another minute
4. Inside the glass, look for the color-changing label
o If it turns red, that means water is present
o If it stays white or clear, you’re likely safe

Do not charge or use the Flitecell if there’s any sign of water inside. Contact Fliteboard
immediately.

If the Flitecell has been dropped, hit, or visibly damaged, stop using it immediately. Bring it in for inspection or contact Fliteboard support. Lithium batteries can become dangerous if
compromised.

Battery safety and performance start with basic checks. Here’s what to do regularly:
• Inspect the charger for any damage—check the cord, plug, connectors, and housing
• Don’t charge if the cord is frayed or the plug is cracked. Replace the charger immediately
if anything looks off

Whether you’re storing the battery for a few days or a few months, follow this:
• Keep it out of reach of kids and pets
• Never store it near heat sources like a furnace, heater, or water heater
• Do not leave the battery inside a vehicle, especially during Florida summers
• Store it in a cool, dry place, ideally between 50°F and 77°F

No—never store the battery while it’s plugged in or actively charging. Once it’s charged,
disconnect and store separately.

No—this is where most riders go wrong.
• For short or long-term storage, aim for a 40% charge
• One LED on the Flitecell means it’s roughly 25–35% charged, which is within the safe
zone
• Only fully charge the battery when you're about to ride
We recommend this:
During your last session of the season, run the battery down naturally so you’re close to 40%.
Then clean, dry, and store.

If the board is parked for more than a few weeks:
• Every 2 months, charge the Flitecell to 60%
• Let the battery’s self-balancing system run—this helps prevent internal imbalance and
capacity drop over time
• Before your first ride of the new season, fully charge both the Flitecell and controller
to 100%
o This might take longer than usual—up to 24 hours—and that’s normal
o Use this charging window to do a full inspection and maintenance check

If you want your board to last—and avoid costly repairs—do this every few weeks:
• Lubricate the latches and hinges with a non-solvent silicone-based lubricant
o Don’t spray directly onto the board or deck grip—overspray will leave it slick
• Inspect your board for cracks or damage
o If you spot anything beyond surface wear, bring it in—we offer repair estimates
• Check the orange mast flange seal regularly
o Clean it and make sure it isn’t worn, pinched, or drying out

If you're logging daily sessions in saltwater—especially here in the Florida Panhandle—your
maintenance needs to be tighter:
• Every 2–3 days, remove the eFoil and wings from the board
• Clean all cable connectors with contact cleaner
• Apply Tef-Gel to all screws to prevent corrosion and binding
Even if the board feels fine, hidden salt buildup can cause long-term damage to seals and
connectors. These simple routines keep your setup clean, safe, and ready to ride.

After each session:
• Wash the bladder with warm, soapy water—get all the salt and sand off
• Dry it completely before storage—trapped moisture leads to mildew and internal wear
• You can store it inflated or deflated, on or off the carbon insert—just make sure it’s
clean and not exposed to sun or heat

The Fliteboard Air comes with a repair kit that handles most small bladder issues. If you're
unsure how to patch it—or want it done clean—bring it into Emerald Wake and we’ll handle it for you.

After each session—especially if you’re launching from the beach or riding saltwater—here’s what to do:
• Wash the inflatable bladder with warm, soapy water
• Dry it fully before storage to prevent mold and mildew buildup
• You can store the bladder inflated or deflated, either on or off the carbon insert—just
make sure it’s clean and not exposed to heat

• Wash the core with the same soapy water
• Wipe off any sand or debris from the mast flange and around the Flitecell lid
compartment seals—those zones are high-risk for salt buildup

Store the Flitescooter and all components in their bags, in a clean, dry environment. A shaded garage, closet, or gear shed with good airflow is ideal. Avoid stuffing it wet into a vehicle or letting it sit in direct sunlight

If you're riding in saltwater—which most of us in the Florida Panhandle are—your eFoil and
stem need a proper rinse and wipe-down after every session.
Here’s exactly what to do:
• Rinse the entire eFoil with fresh water right after riding
• Wipe down areas prone to buildup using isopropyl alcohol or WD-40—focus on the
fuselage, mast flange, tail, and end cap
• Do not spray water directly onto the Flitebox or power cables
o Instead, use a wet microfiber towel and mild soapy water to carefully clean
those components

Every few sessions, spray contact cleaner into the power cable connections to flush out salt
or grime and help maintain clean electrical contact.

Treat the stem and console just like the eFoil:

• Rinse the outside with fresh water
• Periodically focus a light stream of water inside the stem and around the trigger
housing—this clears out any salt buildup that might affect the thumb trigger’s
movement or internal components

If you skip this step, salt will crust up inside and reduce trigger responsiveness over time

After every ride—especially in saltwater—you should:

• Wash both the safety key and controller with warm, soapy water
• Use a microfiber towel to wipe them down and dry thoroughly
• Spray a bit of fresh water around the trigger to loosen and remove any sand, grit, or
salt buildup

That trigger area is especially prone to issues if you drop the controller in dry sand or skip postride cleaning. Keeping it clean avoids stiffness, sticking, and internal corrosion—problems we see constantly in Gulf Coast riding conditions.

After riding in saltwater—especially here in the Gulf—you need to flush and dry the
mast properly to prevent internal corrosion and salt buildup.

Here's the post-ride routine:

• Disconnect everything:
o Flitecell power cables
o Data cables
o Receiver
o And for Series 1 boards: the Flitecell Canbus cable
• Rinse the mast thoroughly with fresh water, outside and in
o Focus on the rear notch in the flange—this is how you flush the inside of
the mast
• If you're keeping the foil attached to the board, still rinse around the mast
flange—this is where salt gets trapped at the board connection point
• Dry the mast fully before storing or reassembling
Even after one salty session, skipping this leads to corrosion we often see in damaged
boards brought in for service.

Every few weeks—or more often if you’re riding daily—break the setup down and do a
full cleaning:
1. Disassemble the eFoil from the board
2. Remove the wing, fuselage cover, and tail
3. Clean all components with warm, soapy water—this clears salt and sand from
every surface
4. Wipe everything down with a clean microfiber towel
5. Use isopropyl alcohol on silver parts, and WD-40 on black components to
remove grime and prevent seizing
This level of care keeps your mast smooth, salt-free, and performing like new—even in
the harsh Florida saltwater environment.

After every session—especially in saltwater—rinse the folding prop thoroughly with
fresh water. That quick rinse helps prevent salt crust and keeps the blades moving
freely.

Every few sessions, or after any gritty/silty conditions, you’ll want to go deeper:
• Remove the folding prop completely
• Wipe it down with a microfiber towel
• Use WD-40 or isopropyl alcohol to break down any salt, grime, or sand lodged
in the joints

There are two spots that always collect buildup:
• The pivot pins that hold the folding blades
• The rear clamp on the propeller pin
These areas seize up fast if ignored—especially if you leave your board wet or
unbagged in Florida heat

Yes—Fliteboard provides a folding prop removal and installation guide. If you’re
unsure or want help, bring it by Emerald Wake and we’ll show you how to clean and
reinstall it safely.

Every time you ride—especially in saltwater—you should:
• Rinse the entire controller with fresh water
• Run a steady stream of water directly into the trigger housing
• While rinsing, press and release the trigger repeatedly to flush out sand, grit,
and salt buildup
This simple step prevents the most common cause of trigger issues we see from
saltwater riders in the Florida Panhandle.

If the trigger feels sticky or gritty, here’s how to go deeper:
1. Peel back the rubber cover on the underside of the controller
2. Clean the area with fresh water, making sure to remove any salt or grime
3. Dry the compartment completely before replacing the cover
Still having issues? Go one level further:
• Use a torque driver to remove the three screws on the underside of the
controller
• This will let you access and inspect the trigger, spring, and magnet
• Clean those parts carefully—WD-40 or alcohol on a microfiber towel works well
for this

Proper trigger maintenance can mean the difference between smooth sessions and a
total shutdown mid-ride.

Every session—especially in saltwater—should end with this exact battery routine:
• Wipe down the Flitecell with a wet cloth using fresh water only
• Clean the contacts and data connector using contact cleaner
• Never place it directly on sand, and never submerge it—it’s water-resistant,
not waterproof
• Don’t charge immediately after riding—wait at least 30 minutes to let it cool
internally
• Do not use denatured alcohol or any flammable solvents to clean the battery
or charger
That waiting period and gentle cleaning go a long way—especially in Gulf Coast
conditions where sand and humidity hit hard.

If your board flipped, took on water, or the Flitecell got submerged, check the sight
glass immediately:
1. Find the sight glass on the side of the Flitecell
2. Stand the battery upright on its bottom end for 1 minute
3. Then lay it on its side with the sight glass facing down for another minute
4. Look at the color-changing label inside the glass:
o If it’s white, you’re clear
o If it turns red, do not use or charge the battery
If the label is red, or the battery looks swollen/damaged—contact Fliteboard support
immediately. Don't try to test or reset anything. This isn’t optional—lithium cells can
become dangerous if compromised.